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Textiles · Woman’s shirt

Woman’s shirt

Inv. no. Тк-1879 · Textiles

Project: Sloboda Ukraine Code. Ukrainian embroidery

Straight-cut shirt, 'to the hem.' The body of the shirt is sewn from three panels of hemp canvas (hem) and two panels of linen canvas (body). Full description

Date
19th century
Material
Fabric, homemade fabric, bleached hemp canvas, bleached linen canvas, decorative and weaving material, thread, zappolotch, hemp thread, appliqué decorations, braid
Technique
Factory weaving, hand weaving, hand sewing, hand embroidery, surface embroidery, counted surface embroidery, 'cross' diagonal, 'stebnivka' ('running stitch'), auxiliary decorative stitches, 'pukhlyky,' openwork
Dimensions
106x73x60 cm (sleeve from neckline)

Photo: M. F. Sumtsov Kharkiv Historical Museum · CC BY 4.0

Embroidery pattern

A cross-stitch pattern of this object’s ornament. To print it, download the full sheet in high resolution.

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The pattern was created in the project “Sloboda Ukraine Code: Ukrainian Embroidery”.

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Cross-stitch pattern of the ornament of object ТК-1879 “Woman’s shirt”

Description

Straight-cut shirt, 'to the hem.' The body of the shirt is sewn from three panels of hemp canvas (hem) and two panels of linen canvas (body). The sleeve is straight with a gusset and an inset, sewn along the weft; decorated at the top with five rows of 22 cm long 'pukhlyky,' connected to the inset with fasteners; at the bottom with a ruffle formed by gathering the fabric 3.5 cm from the edge and overlaid with a narrow white factory-made braid; with a buttonhole loop and a small button. The body and insets are gathered near the neckline into fine folds using the 'sewing to the collar' technique. The neckline is 'square' with a 23 cm slit in the center front, finished with a narrow hem with a buttonhole loop on the right. The shirt is decorated with stylized plant patterns, embroidered with black and red zappolotch (inset, sleeve) and openwork with geometric patterns embroidered with white hemp thread (hem). The lower edge of the inset is decorated with a horizontal strip of roses (Rosa centifolia) with branches, leaves, and buds, enclosed by two wavy branches with flowers in the recesses. Above the strip, five small bouquets with three flowers are embroidered ('cross'). On the sleeve — roses (Rosa centifolia) with branches and leaves, arranged in three rows in a checkerboard pattern ('cross'). The ruffle edge on the sleeve is decorated with red dots, and the neckline hem is adorned with a red cross-stitch retyaz. The hem is sewn with a narrow openwork, above which an openwork with geometric patterns is laid ('openwork with overlay'). Legend: Belonged to Frosyna Hryhorivna Kachaylova, a resident of the village of Parkhomivka, Krasnokutsky District, Kharkiv Region. Acquired by the expedition of the Kharkiv Historical Museum.

Record

Inventory number
Тк-1879
Title
Woman’s shirt
Collection group
Textiles · Woman’s shirt
Date
19th century
Material
Fabric, homemade fabric, bleached hemp canvas, bleached linen canvas, decorative and weaving material, thread, zappolotch, hemp thread, appliqué decorations, braid
Technique
Factory weaving, hand weaving, hand sewing, hand embroidery, surface embroidery, counted surface embroidery, 'cross' diagonal, 'stebnivka' ('running stitch'), auxiliary decorative stitches, 'pukhlyky,' openwork
Dimensions
106x73x60 cm (sleeve from neckline)
Place of creation
Ukraine, Sloboda Ukraine, Kharkiv Governorate,village of Parkhomivka.

Updated 14 Oct 2026

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