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Woman’s shirt, inv. no. Тк-256: photo 1 of 6
Photo 1 of 6
Woman’s shirt, inv. no. Тк-256: photo 1 of 6
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Textiles · Woman’s shirt

Woman’s shirt

Inv. no. Тк-256 · Textiles

Project: Sloboda Ukraine Code. Ukrainian embroidery

Straight-cut shirt, 'dodilkova.' The body of the shirt is sewn from three panels. The sleeve is straight with a gusset and an inset, sewn along the weft, gathered at the bottom into 4 cm high folds, finished with colored braid in blue, red, and orange stripes. Full description

Date
19th century
Material
Fabric, homemade fabric, bleached hemp canvas, decorative and weaving material, thread, white thread, appliqué decorations, braid
Technique
Hand weaving, factory weaving, hand sewing, hand embroidery, surface embroidery, counted surface embroidery, 'lyshtva' ('satin stitch') diagonal, 'retyaz,' 'stebnivka' ('running stitch'), openwork, transparent embroidery, 'grain stitch'
Dimensions
118x77x64 cm (sleeve from neckline)

Photo: M. F. Sumtsov Kharkiv Historical Museum · CC BY 4.0

Description

Straight-cut shirt, 'dodilkova.' The body of the shirt is sewn from three panels. The sleeve is straight with a gusset and an inset, sewn along the weft, gathered at the bottom into 4 cm high folds, finished with colored braid in blue, red, and orange stripes. The body and insets are gathered near the neckline into fine pleats using the 'sewing to the collar' technique. The neckline is oval with a 21 cm slit in the center front, bound with braid featuring blue diamonds and red stripes. The shirt is decorated with stylized plant patterns, embroidered in 'white on white.' The inset is decorated with a horizontal garland of three- and four-petal flowers, framed above and below with zigzag lines ('lyshtva'). A zigzag line with half-flowers at the corners and dots in the recesses, enclosed on all sides by a broken line, is laid along the upper sleeve edge ('lyshtva,' 'grain stitch'). The hem is sewn with a narrow strip of openwork with holes ('openwork with overlay') and decorated with a horizontal composition of vertical columns embroidered 'in a lock' and crossed diagonal lines ('lyshtva'). The entire ornament is surrounded by a narrow retyaz ('retyaz'). Legend: According to the entry in inventory book TK-1, the shirt belonged to the Museum of Sloboda Ukraine named after H.S. Skovoroda.

Record

Inventory number
Тк-256
Title
Woman’s shirt
Collection group
Textiles · Woman’s shirt
Date
19th century
Material
Fabric, homemade fabric, bleached hemp canvas, decorative and weaving material, thread, white thread, appliqué decorations, braid
Technique
Hand weaving, factory weaving, hand sewing, hand embroidery, surface embroidery, counted surface embroidery, 'lyshtva' ('satin stitch') diagonal, 'retyaz,' 'stebnivka' ('running stitch'), openwork, transparent embroidery, 'grain stitch'
Dimensions
118x77x64 cm (sleeve from neckline)
Place of creation
Ukraine, Sloboda Ukraine

Updated 14 Oct 2026

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