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Textiles · Woman’s shirt

Woman’s shirt

Inv. no. Тк-2597 · Textiles

Project: Sloboda Ukraine Code. Ukrainian embroidery

Straight-silhouette 'to pidtochka' shirt. The bodice and pidtochka are sewn from six panels. The sleeve is straight with a gusset and shoulder inset sewn along the grain; gathered at the bottom into small pleats using the 'sewing to collar' technique, on a 2.7 cm wide cuff, stitched at the top and… Full description

Date
19th century
Material
Homespun fabric, bleached hemp canvas, hemp thread, zari thread
Technique
Hand weaving, hand sewing, embroidery, openwork, surface embroidery, counted surface embroidery, 'stebnivka' ('backstitch'), diagonal 'cross-stitch,' auxiliary decorative seams, 'puffy' gathers, looped stitch
Dimensions
128x73x69 cm (sleeve from neckline)

Photo: M. F. Sumtsov Kharkiv Historical Museum · CC BY 4.0

Embroidery pattern

A cross-stitch pattern of this object’s ornament. To print it, download the full sheet in high resolution.

PNG · 4.7 MB · 7206 × 10593 pixels

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The pattern was created in the project “Sloboda Ukraine Code: Ukrainian Embroidery”.

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Cross-stitch pattern of the ornament of object ТК-2597 “Woman’s shirt”

Description

Straight-silhouette 'to pidtochka' shirt. The bodice and pidtochka are sewn from six panels. The sleeve is straight with a gusset and shoulder inset sewn along the grain; gathered at the bottom into small pleats using the 'sewing to collar' technique, on a 2.7 cm wide cuff, stitched at the top and bottom with two double 'backstitch' bands, with a loop fastening; decorated at the top with 10 cm 'puffy' gathers. The sleeve and shoulder inset are sewn with double 'backstitch.' The bodice and shoulder insets are gathered near the neckline using the 'sewing to collar' technique. The round neckline has a 33 cm slit at the center front, finished with a narrow binding with double 'backstitch' and two loop fastenings at the edges. The slit is secured at the bottom with two fasteners. The shirt is decorated with black-and-red floral embroidery. The shoulder inset features a 3.5 cm wide band of roses (Rosa centifolia) with branches and leaves, framed above and below by narrow strips of stylized flowers (0.7 cm and 0.5 cm, respectively). Above are three flowers with branches, leaves, and buds. The sleeve has a scattering of similar ornamental motifs: roses (Rosa centifolia) with branches, leaves, and buds, with stems framed in red at the bottom. The cuff is embroidered with 1 cm wide strips of stylized flowers and leaflets framing the embroidery on both sides. The cuff edge is adorned with white and red looped serrations (2x2). The hem is finished with a double column, above which is a 3.5 cm wide openwork band of roses (Rosa centifolia) with branches and leaves. Along the joining seams at the hem, two round flowers with branches, leaves, and buds (6.3 cm long) are embroidered. Legend: The shirt was made by Mariia Semenivna Tetyanko (born 1895) during her youth.

Record

Inventory number
Тк-2597
Title
Woman’s shirt
Collection group
Textiles · Woman’s shirt
Date
19th century
Material
Homespun fabric, bleached hemp canvas, hemp thread, zari thread
Technique
Hand weaving, hand sewing, embroidery, openwork, surface embroidery, counted surface embroidery, 'stebnivka' ('backstitch'), diagonal 'cross-stitch,' auxiliary decorative seams, 'puffy' gathers, looped stitch
Dimensions
128x73x69 cm (sleeve from neckline)
Place of creation
Ukraine, Sloboda Ukraine, Kharkiv Governorate, Zmiiv County (later Balakliia District), Pryshyb village

Updated 14 Oct 2026

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