Woman’s shirt

Straight-silhouette 'to pidtochka' shirt. The bodice is sewn from six hemp panels, and the sleeves are possibly made of linen canvas. The sleeve is straight, fully cut with a gusset, gathered at the bottom into small pleats using the 'sewing to collar' technique, and finished with a 2.5 cm wide cuff. The bodice and upper sleeve are densely gathered near the neckline using the 'sewing to collar' technique. The round neckline has a 32 cm slit at the center front, bound with a narrow edge with two slit loops at the edges for a tie. The shirt is decorated with white-on-white geometric ornaments (shoulder area, sleeve, cuff, hem) and black and red zari thread (hem) and stylized floral ornaments also embroidered with black and red zari thread (hem). The sleeve at the shoulder area is decorated with a horizontal embroidery band with triangular and diagonal diamond motifs, underlined above and below with thin strips of four-petal half-flowers and a 'three-window' pyramid ('lyshtva,' 'cutwork,' 'grain output'). The shoulder has four diagonal diamonds arranged horizontally ('cutwork'). The sleeve surface is filled with 'branch' motif embroidery: a vertical trunk with five diagonal branches on each side ('cutwork,' 'lyshtva,' 'grain output'). The cuff is decorated with a horizontal 'worm' openwork band and adorned with serrations along the edge. The hem is finished with a 'single column' and decorated with a 5 cm wide horizontal openwork band with a diamond ornament formed by small holes ('lyakivka' openwork?). The bodice panels at the hem are joined with a zigzag line embroidered with red and black zari thread ('worm'), decorated on both sides with garlands of flowers with leaves embroidered in 'cross-stitch.' Legend: The shirt belonged to Mariia Panteleimonivna Ponomarova, who lived at: Kharkiv Oblast, Chuhuiv District, Mospanove village.